Craft

Hudson Valley Trail

“Hudson Valley Trail, New York”

In landscape photography we often discuss the many different ingredients that go into making a successful image. Things like composition, color, mood, light, and of course subject. And while these are all essential parts, the aspect I think is underestimated and not talked about enough is the relationships between these elements.

How does the subject interact with the rest of the composition? Is the main “character” easily defined? Imagine a movie where you couldn’t tell who the main character was, or a song that did not have a recognizable melody. How quickly would you lose interest?

How does the color influence the balance and design of the image? Saturated color is great, but only when a harmonious relationship exists with some other part of the composition, otherwise it loses its ability to convey a strong message other than “here’s a lot of color”.

Are the tonalities balanced in a way that leads the eye in a meaningful way? Light is a powerful force in our search for evocative landscapes, but are you controlling the light through careful composition, and removing what may be distracting?

These questions are all based on relationships and how we use them in landscape photography. I’ll be covering these ideas in-depth in an upcoming article, but for now think about these concepts the next time you are out with your camera. Even simple things like using a longer focal length can have a dramatic impact on your ability to create stronger relationships. Avoid the temptation to capture it all, and use 70, 80, or even a 100mm focal length to narrow down your field of view and work with basic shapes, lines, and color. This will help you recognize relationships much easier, and your images will gain clarity because of it.

“We photograph something for two reasons: for what it is, and for what else it is.” – Minor White

 

{ 0 comments }

Annapolis River Marsh, Nova Scotia

“A great photographer’s power is the product of light and composition. This might be called the photographer’s voice. Repeating the composition of another, even if the light is different, pointlessly repeats what has already been ‘said’. It is mere mimicry. Photographer’s should strive for their own voice, strive to say something genuinely different about the place in their own way.” – David Ward

 

{ 0 comments }

Home > Beyond the Lens > Craft

Large Format Printing and Paper Selection

by RR Jr on April 18, 2012

Choosing the right paper for your prints can be overwhelming these days given all of the choices available, and especially critical with large print sizes. Recently I had to make 17 large prints for two corporate customers, NYU Langone Medical Center in NYC, and Lawrence Hospital in Bronxville, a suburb of NYC. I strive to provide the best possible product and experience for all of my customers, (which for me means going way beyond what is expected, and choosing the best materials and tools available) so I thought I would share some info on my paper choices and printing workflow. For my large format printing, I’m using my workhorse Canon iPF8100 printer which is still going strong after 3 years of regular use. I replaced one of the print heads 4 months ago, and Canon replaced a faulty circuit board last year under warranty. Other than that, it has worked great and ink usage is extremely good. meaning it is very efficient.

I printed mostly out of Lightroom 4, and a few images were printed out of Photoshop CS5. This was because a small number of images were captured on an older camera with less resolution, so I used Alien Skin Blowup 3 to enlarge them, and it was just easier to print out of Photoshop at that point. I used custom ICC profiles for all papers which I create using my X-Rite i1 Photo Pro spectrophotometer.

"Mt Beacon Light" - 40" x 60" Canson Platine

The 40″ x 60″ print above was printed on Canson Platine Fiber Rag 310. Why did I choose Platine? Simple, I love the texture, dmax and detailDmax is a measure of the deepest black tone a printer/ink/paper combination can reproduce, and this is important for both shadow definition and contrast. For this particular image my goal was to preserve shadow depth and create as much contrast as possible to really make the sunlight jump off the paper. I also wanted to maintain as much detail as possible, which is a key part of the image, and again Platine really does a great job of conveying that detail to the viewer. Platine also has a very nice texture which adds just a bit of depth and dimension to an otherwise flat print.

Proper camera technique really helps with making a print this large from a 35mm camera – low ISO, tripod, mirror lockup, optimal f stop and focal length for the lens, and optimal post processing. So camera settings are: ISO 200, f/8 @1/60th sec, 24mm. (That’s my iPhone with the same image for a size reference :)

"Nature Patterns" - 37" x 54" Canson Rag Photographique 310

"Autumn's Play" - 40" x 60" Canson Rag Photographique

20" x 60" Panoramas - Canson Rag Photographique

All of the above prints were made on Canson Rag Photographique 310, another favorite paper of mine but for different reasons. In this case I chose Rag Photographique for its beautiful matte finish and very smooth texture. I wanted more of a watercolor look, which really brings out the colors and creates more of a painterly effect, which I think helps convey the feel of the images as I originally conceived them. Of course dmax is still very important, and while not as high as Platine, Rag Photographique still delivers very nice blacks and rich contrast. The key of course is very careful soft-proofing and testing using small proofs to make sure the image is optimized for the paper. This is where the latest Lightroom 4 really helps with its ability to not only soft-proof, but also create print specific files for each paper you use. All of these prints were adjusted slightly for the paper, and this is really critical to maximizing your prints.

Above is the new soft-proofing feature in Lightroom 4 where you can preview the original image on the left and the adjusted “soft-proof” virtual copy on the right. Lightroom even renames the virtual copy with the name of the paper profile so you know which paper this proof is meant for – very cool. The adjustments I make to the virtual copy are only for printing, the original remains unchanged, and no need to create additional files on my hard drive – it is all generated from one RAW file.

 

Once the prints are permanently installed,  I’ll post photos of the installations once I get a chance to visit the locations. Stay tuned for some upcoming video tutorials on paper selection and soft-proofing in Lightroom 4.

{ 8 comments }

Questions on UV Filters and Long Lenses

March 29, 2012 Craft

I received the following two questions from a loyal reader, so I thought they would make a great post and hopefully be useful and informative for all of you who read the blog. 1. Do you use “protective” filters on your lenses — like the UV filters?  In general I prefer not to use protective filters [...]

Read the full article →

The Real Value of Time Well Spent

March 23, 2012 Business

This great info graphic by swissmiss has been making its rounds on the internet today, first on Seth’s blog, and also on Chase Jarvis’ blog, and I recommend you read both for their individual takes on this subject. When I saw it I immediately smiled because it proves that a picture is worth a thousand [...]

Read the full article →

Intro to Fine Art Printing at Unique Photo This Weekend

March 19, 2012 Craft

I’ll be giving a 2 hour seminar titled “Intro to Fine Art Printing” this weekend at Unique University, part of Unique Photo located  in Fairfield New Jersey. Sponsored by Canson Infinity,  I’ll be talking about the basics of printing your own work, the latest fine art printers, workflow, and of course Canson paper. I’ll also [...]

Read the full article →